Road Trip Through the USA West Coast

Road Trip along the West Coast of the United States, July 2023.

From Los Angeles to San Francisco via Malibu, hikes in Yosemite National Park, Zion, the Grand Canyon, Las Vegas, Sedona, Phoenix.

My son and I set off to explore these four major American states. I was accompanied by my ex-boyfriend at the time. Sometimes when you live big, things become obvious to you. I left him after returning from the trip. To maintain what I consider a minimum of anonymity, we'll call him that for this post; you know who I'm talking about.

Upon arrival in Los Angeles after more than 11 hours of flying from our stopover in London, we picked up a Ford Mustang convertible directly and easily at the airport.

It was my first time in the United States. A first. Unexpected. A surprise. This country completely swept me away, with its immensity, its identity, its friendliness, its ease.

So my ex-boyfriend had already traveled this route as a teenager with his family. He dreamed of doing it again with the freedom of an adult. I had never dreamed of this trip; this route was unfamiliar to me. I had another wish list (how lucky I was). That being said, he convinced me to go to the USA. At first, it didn't really appeal to me; it echoed cities, buildings, and junk food in my head, while summer vacations rhyme with desert landscapes, vast stretches of beach, coconut trees, and the scent of tiare.

I had embarked on this trip to the United States without being too interested in it because I hadn't had time to consider it, to dream about it.

We booked in March for July through Virgin Airlines and the ticket prices for international travel were around €750/person which seemed ok to me.

During the months leading up to my departure, I was absorbed in my work, and I received a promotion to manager a few days before my departure. I knew I was being closely watched; the position was highly sought-after and coveted; I couldn't miss out. I committed myself to my work even more than usual, even more than was reasonable.

I settled into the plane, not even realizing I was off, on vacation, that we were leaving and embarking on an extraordinary journey. I hadn't had time to think about it. I packed my bags hastily late that evening. My head was both full and empty. My mind foggy, bogged down. Elsewhere and nowhere. I didn't know it at the time, but I was actually sliding down the winding road to burnout, and I was going to hit the wall a few months later.

We rented a well-located apartment in Los Angeles for 3 nights if you have a car. on James M Wood Blvd. We stayed, via Booking.com in this apartment (comfortable sofa bed + an extra bed for my son) for a budget of around €150/night.

Just across the street is a Seven Eleven. It's super convenient for buying essentials for my son (chocolate milk, cookies, bottled water).

We landed in the afternoon, time to check in we then went to the Bob's Big Boy to devour the American atmosphere and its famous burgers. I found these burgers coarse and disappointing, the bacon was cut into thick slices (generous, you might say). I have the distinct memory of a freezing cold inside the restaurant / fast food restaurant, due to the air conditioning.

The next morning, we headed to Universal Studios . This is not at all my favorite type of leisure activity, and because of the budget, I have always tended to avoid it. The entrance fee to the park is €96 per person . Not including expenses in the park, and I can tell you that we easily spent double that on food, refreshments, and souvenirs.

I went along because my boyfriend had planned the trip and, seeing my opposition, he offered to give the day away for my son's birthday.

I went there with a lot of preconceptions, almost disappointed to waste a day of travel in an amusement park, far from the authenticity of what touches me, and honestly I had a great day.

DAY 1: It's quite something when you get up in the morning abroad. It's also one of the reasons why I like to arrive at the end of the day or in the evening, because I particularly appreciate the magic of waking up somewhere else.

We took the Ford Mustang; it was early. We grabbed a Dunkin' Donut coffee to go and breakfast for my son, and off we went to Universal. I remember the vast avenues, deserted in the morning. The traffic lights on the other side of the tracks rising high into the sky. The coolness of a July morning. Driving the freeways and seeing the signs scroll by with the words "Melrose Avenue" and "Normandie Avenue." The wind in our hair, the sun low. A few chills.

My son is 6 years old, and the magic works every time. It's magical, and naturally, you rediscover a childlike soul. I completely lost it when I found myself immersed in the world of Harry Potter. The Harry Potter ride was the best I've ever been on in my life. It's extraordinary. Flying above Hogwarts, that feeling of going to the other side of the screen and entering the magic is priceless.

Going to Ollivander's to buy a wizard's wand is also priceless (exorbitant). Offering him a butterbeer. Walking through the alleys that include Diagon Alley is a real treat.

I enjoyed this day with a child's soul, mine holding my hand.

We walked around the park, gave Shrek and especially Fiona a big hug, we did the Jurassic Park attraction, the "training" to become a Cute after which my son thought he had truly become a Cute, which made him wonder for a while.

In short: Universal Studios is a budget option, but with a child aged 6 and over who can wait in the queues (which are very well managed), it can turn out to be a memorable day.

To end the day in style by taking advantage of the late afternoon light, we went to the Griffith Observatory . The view of the famous Hollywood sign is breathtaking as well as downtown on the other side. We enjoyed the view for a while and took some photos then we headed towards Hollywood Boulevard. We easily found parking, and we did some shopping on the avenue. I love buying sneakers in the US, they have super original models especially for children and at interesting prices.

DAY 2: Venice Beach, Los Angeles.

The weather was overcast that day. We went for a walk on Venice Beach. I loved the eccentricity of the boardwalk. The palm trees brushing the sky. The ocean as far as the eye can see. The vibe. We had breakfast at The Sidewalk Café . The size of pancakes in the US is crazy! You can literally eat ONE pancake for two. I love the butter and maple syrup in quantity to pour over it. Their drip coffee is incredible (equivalent to our filter coffee), you have to like hot water, let's say. I got used to it and I only like it like that now. My friends have a lot of fun hearing me ask in France ever since , "a very American American coffee please".

After breakfast we really needed to stretch our legs, so we rented bikes on the beach and cycled to Santa Monica Pier . I totally recommend renting a bike, it's really nice to do the seaside like that and everything lends itself to it.

We went for a nap in the afternoon (jetlagged we all slept a good two hours) and in the evening we went back to Sidewalk because the servers were really too nice! And there I had the immense pleasure of savoring my first real American burger (with avocado, crispy bacon) simply INCREDIBLE.

DAY 3: Head to San Luis De Obispo for a night's stopover on the way to San Francisco.

We spent the day driving up the west coast, the road running along the ocean. It's funny because the road sometimes oscillates between the ocean's edge and land, and the temperature rose by +10°C as we moved away from the shore.

We stopped in Malibu. Having spent a large part of my childhood watching and imitating CJ in Baywatch, I went there with the eyes of a child.

We parked in the McDonald's parking lot, grabbed a takeout lunch, and sat on the beach. The waves were huge, and we barely swam; we were the only people on the beach.

It was my first experience in a swimsuit in the US and I was impressed by the idea that there were certainly sharks in front of me, the kind you wouldn't imagine back home in the Mediterranean. The idea of picking up shark teeth on the beach is exciting.

We quickly got back on the road and arrived in San Luis de Obispo in the late afternoon. We checked into the Apple Farm Inn . This hotel was a gem in the middle of nowhere.

That evening we went on foot to have dinner just across the street at Schoolyard Burgers & Brew where I ate a real burger that is among my best in the US. We sat at the bar (the only time of the trip because children are not allowed to sit at the bar of an establishment) and had a pleasant evening.

The room was very comfortable and offered two king-size beds, ideal when traveling with a child (or two). Their breakfast was certainly the best I've had so far in a US hotel. I found on the next table the biggest pancakes I've ever seen. It's cozy and warm.

DAY 4: San Francisco

After this famous gargantuan breakfast, we hit the road, heading for SF. The road is majestic, and takes on the allure of the warm colors of a safari. I loved repeating to my son, amazed by the beauty and grandeur of the landscapes "look, regaaaaarrdeee" and him getting excited about everything he saw from his childlike height.

Again, we arrived in San Francisco in the middle of the afternoon. The road to reach the lookout where we spent some time admiring the famous San Francisco Bridge is incredible. I felt like I was driving through a forest, each tree touching the sky. The road is beautiful. And I was surprised to find the bridge in the middle of lush greenery. I imagined it drowned in the city, the pollution, and it's quite the opposite.

There were red wooden lounge chairs. I sat there for a moment. There are moments, vivid seconds, when I realize the extent of my luck. I thank the universe, life, and my tireless efforts that ultimately led me to this luck.

I remember feeling very cold in the early evening, despite the nice weather. I understood why they sold hoodies everywhere and not vests.

We had Korean dinner at Surisan . The Korean food there is divine. I needed a change and something other than fried food or a burger that night.

In the evening, we always got home around 9/9:30pm. Tired from long journeys, dinners are easily eaten early in the US. And traveling with a child, after dinner we walk a little at most and then go home.

We had chosen to spend the night at the Stanford Court Hotel in the heart of the city, comfortable and clean.

Day 5: In the early morning we went for a walk on the San Francisco Pier and had our coffee/lunch at Pier 39 at Eagle Café . I loved this place on the heights of the Pier stilts, the authentic charm of the place, their drip coffee and again the generosity of the plates. I had an omelet with cheddar, I love it and it was perfect!

After lunch, we hit the road again towards Yosemite National Park .

Here again, the road was a gift from heaven. I could hardly describe the grandeur of the spectacle that unfolded before me during those many hours of driving. The immensity of the landscapes. You feel so small. The endless desert expanses. These straight roads where you feel like you're going nowhere and everywhere at once.

After a few hours of driving we dropped off our bags at Autocamp Yosemite , which I recommend a thousand times over despite the price, as it is worth the experience.

We stayed in an Airstream, and it was not only comfortable and cozy, but also truly unique. My son had his own single bed, and we had a double bed.

The only downside to the autocamp: the pool. We didn't go in; it's very small and there are too many people for it to be enjoyable (and I don't really like the hygiene, so many people in so little water, but that's just a personal thing).

We went shopping nearby, and we had a barbecue in front of our Airstream, it was really cool. When you're walking through the alleys at night and wonder if you're going to encounter a bear, it's both scary and exciting. At night you hear them. Then in the morning you hear about those who've seen one. And when you remember it, it feels unreal.

Day 6: The next morning, we had a takeaway coffee at the reception (drip coffee is free). My son always has his little groceries wherever we go (his candy up, his cakes). In fact, to please him, I bought him cereals of all colors, it was inedible, I had the impression that it tasted like laundry detergent.

So we hit the road towards Yosemite National Park . There's an entrance ticket to the national parks to pay and it's valid for one year. It costs about ten euros per person.

I cannot say if there are enough superlatives to express the grandeur of the landscapes.

We are not on Mars either, we know the forest, the trees, the vegetation is similar to what we know at home, but what is almost dizzying are the volumes, the proportions of the landscape that surrounds us.

Day 7: We leave Autocamp Yosemite and head for Las Vegas. The drive is long, so we planned to stop for one night.

It was a road trip day. Not just any road trip. We visited Cowboys Calico Ghost Town . Perfect for kids, my son loved panning for gold with a small sieve and taking home a sample of his find.

In the middle of July, in the desert, the heat was unimaginable, and these soaring temperatures were only the beginning, as we were moving further and further into no man's land.

We had breakfast/lunch, let's say it's so generous they are at Peggy Sue's Diner . My best diner experience so far. Everything you could imagine of the American diner experience , old-school. The vintage diner . The retro tarnished metal counter, the cracked leather stools, the waitress uniforms, the filter coffee, the colorful old jukebox, the decor, the memorabilia.

Dinner in its original form, timeless. It's hearty, generous, and famous .

Peggy Sue's Diner is an experience worth having and an integral part of any American road trip adventure.

We then went to Route 66 at Bagdad Café . Ghostly atmosphere. Not a soul. One or two cars stopped, took a few pictures, and left, thinking the café was closed. That's obviously the first impression it gives. Even when we walked up to the door with a big "OPEN" sign, we almost turned around. We stayed for about ten minutes, walking around it, admiring it, before I insisted and tried to push open the famous door. There, a woman and her dog. A regular too, perhaps. A couple and their teenage daughter. I sat down at a table by the window. There was nothing to eat. The atmosphere was "strange." My son played with the woman's dog. She and I chatted for a bit. She too was part of the decor, the worn furniture that still holds up, the great story of this little café in the middle of nowhere.

We spent the night at the Best Western Desert Villa Inn . Convenient and clean.

Good to know: What I really liked everywhere we went was the ease of doing laundry on site because most motels and hotels have their own laundry facilities. In the evening, I would put a load of laundry on while I went to dinner and when I came back, I would put the dryer on. When you travel for several days or weeks, I always like the laundry to be clean. I tend to travel with a lot of clothes and honestly, I find myself wearing the same ones most of the time.

We had burgers at a nearby roadside restaurant whose name escapes me.

Good to know when traveling with a child(ren): I want to emphasize, about the friendliness of Americans towards children. It is good to know and emphasize that wherever you sit down with a child in the US (and in Canada I had the same experience), you are immediately brought a placemat of paper to color and colored pencils to keep the children occupied. We clearly feel that they are welcome everywhere. There is often a free foosball table, the servers address them in a very friendly way "my friend", give them "check" "give me five", pay them special attention which makes the moment extra.

Day 8 & 9: Las Vegas, Nevada!

What can I say about Vegas? The image of casinos took up all the space when I thought about it, and it wasn't the destination I had ever imagined. And here I am!

Once again, Vegas was a pleasant surprise. The frenzy there, the completely marginal and festive atmosphere, the freedom of the artists, the immensity of each building, the lights. It's spectacular. Walking or driving (a super-nice convertible) along the Strip at night is a must.

I haven't been to a casino in Vegas. I don't like it, I feel uncomfortable, I find the atmosphere unhealthy. I don't feel the need to gamble. We spent our days chilling at the hotel pool, playing cards with my son, relaxing and having a good time.

We chose to stay two nights at the Hilton Grand Vacations Club on the Las Vegas Strip . The suite was incredibly large, the largest I've ever stayed in. It was bigger than an apartment or two! Super comfortable, with a view of the pool and Vegas.

You can tell the check-in is hectic when you arrive. I've never seen such organization; I didn't count the number of reception desks surrounding the lobby. The pool was crowded, but spacious. Many Americans from all over the country were there, sipping frozen margaritas in the pool.

I loved the Hard Rock Café, my son's guitar-shaped plate, and the spectacle of the place. The restaurant houses the famous stage outfits of Elvis Presley and Britney Spears.

I remember how cool the waiter was and kept repeating with a very charismatic tone that was beyond him "I'll be right baack" or punctuating his sentences with "gotcha" = I got it. Memorable. His eccentric, daring, assumed look. Beautiful. It's still fucking great when a personality assumes their traits, their marginality, their art and their look is the reflection of something so deep inside. I love watching people be who they are, and use what we call artifices to express what I find fundamentally beautiful. Singularity.

A year and a half later, if you ask me what I remember about Vegas, his face will appear in my earliest memories.

We were lucky enough to see the fountain show on the Strip. It's romantic. It touched me, gave me goosebumps. I loved everything I experienced in Vegas.

We went to see and entered the Cesar Palace, my son danced in the lobby like a six-year-old dancing his hip-hop and I love seeing him live his innocent and happy childhood.

GIRLZ You'll love it! We did a little shopping too. You should know that Victoria Secret is much cheaper in the US, which is why I raid the store quite a bit when we're there. And there's a huge one in Vegas.

Day 10: From Vegas to Zion Park. We cross Nevada to go to Utah.

On the road between Vegas and Zion, we drove through landscapes where my all-time favorite movie, Thelma & Louise, was filmed.

Driving these roads, these warm colors that envelop you until you almost burn, it's beyond imagination. We got out of the car for a few minutes to take pictures and try to "enjoy" but it was way too hot, 105°F (we experienced a record heat wave too, it must be said) the car even had trouble starting because it was so intense. The air conditioning could do nothing for us. Staying out of the car without air conditioning was a feat and more of a pain than a pleasure, to be honest.

We then drove to Zion Glamping Adventures , our spot for one night. We booked a tent (over €400 a night) and it was one of our only regrets. The tent was minimally comfortable, the air conditioning was unbearable (noisy and of course, blew directly on us), shared toilets and bathrooms a few dozen meters away. The infrastructure is really minimalist. So yes, on paper and on the ad, it looks appealing and it's very Instagrammable.

The overall experience was extraordinary, of course, and that's what I remember. Spending that evening in the middle of Zion, preparing a barbecue, roasting marshmallows with my son. Waking up in that setting.

But the price isn't really worth it. Honestly. Not even a bottle of water upon arrival, for the price...

Day 11: Horseshoe Bend, Colorado River

We went to the Courtyard Page at Lake Powell for two nights. This allowed us to visit Horseshoe Bend, Lake Powell and Antelope Canyon .

The pictures speak for themselves.

These are majestic landscapes. You don't expect to find them where you do, that is, in the middle of nowhere. These wonders are hidden behind vast expanses like those that stretch as far as the eye can see. Rough diamonds, preserved, hidden. If they weren't so well-known, who would stop there? In the middle of the desert, and descend between these rocks, like so many of them. And there, in this precise spot, a marvel that echoes the light and plays with the sun.

I know that many great scientists have come to believe in a higher intelligence, and the more I travel the less I believe in chance.

In the evening in Page we really enjoyed dinner at Grand Canyon Brewery . I loved the Rose Bud Cocktail. The atmosphere is great, we had dinner on the terrace. We ate delicious nachos and space jalapenos!

Day 12 & 13: Grand Canyon

Desert Rose Resort & Cabins : in the middle of nowhere again. A little gem, just a stone's throw away we went to dinner at Combi Ridge Eat & Drink (terrace with an interior courtyard atmosphere, cool, good, rather family-friendly atmosphere). The food is great.

The Desert Rose pool and its outdoor sofas are very pleasant with an exceptional view of the desert.

On the road between Page and the Grand Canyon, we passed through Monument Valley and stopped at the famous Forest Gump scenic point .

Here again, we clearly have the sensation of crossing the screen. Forest Gump is part of the great history of the 7th art and an integral part of my childhood. When I turned around and saw that, that road, that iconic spot where he stops running, I got chills.

The US, land of excess, grandeur, and dreams.

When we went to the Grand Canyon , I didn't expect such an atmosphere, a bright pine forest, the smell of warm earth and pine resin. We crossed an expanse of nature that rose ever higher, very wooded and everywhere around us deer. There was one that followed the car a few meters, it was incredible.

These animals are strikingly beautiful. Their antlers also rise high, giving them a noble air. They seem to have come straight from a mirage. The yellow lines separating the lanes from the roads cut through the scenery and blend seamlessly, echoing the very light that has faded.

The further we travel, the more I write in my head. Sometimes I take notes, often I forget them. Thoughts just pass by, but not feelings. I draw rainbows above the clouds. Sometimes the silence is deafening. I have a man by my side who seems happy, and I write, in my head. I put words on the clouds. I imagine afterward, elsewhere. It's been months since I've laughed. I'm dying of it, it's slowly killing me. I, who laugh from morning to night, alone, it's the same. But here by his side, the silence weighs on me. It's not just the journey that's coming to an end. The paradox is too glaring. I'm living an experience I would hardly have dared to dream, as if I could only have drawn it with a pencil and an eraser beside it. And I only share it with a solitude that hurts and damages, the solitude of those who are two. You don't see that in photos, and here I want to share my reality without filter. My dreams, my hopes, my disappointments. My travels. My elsewheres and my nows. So there you have it, that's life too. Nothing is all black, nothing is all white.

Day 14 & 15: Sedona

Sedona is it.

A small central street lined with souvenir shops and all amenities. A fantastic Mexican restaurant at 89Agave Cantina . This Mexican restaurant is simply amazing! It's worth a visit to Sedona just to dine there.

We stayed at the Sky Range Lodge , a little gem in a green setting, extremely well maintained and cared for. The room was super comfortable and cozy, even with a kitchenette which is always practical when traveling with one or more little ones.

BUDGET / Good to know: the average hotel spend during the trip is €200/night, knowing that we stayed in beautiful establishments and focused on comfort.

Last Tip note: When you stop at a gas station in the USA, remember to buy and try the cinnamon gum if you like it, it's amazing!

Day 16: Phoenix

We left to spend our last 24 hours in Phoenix, at the hotel Arizona Baltimore, LXR Hotels & Resorts : EXCEPTIONAL.

We could have spent a week there. The hotel is amazing. There are four pools from memory. One is awesome where my son went down the slide about a thousand times. It's awesome and super convenient for families, you can sit at the bottom of the slide at the pool bar/restaurant, with your butt in the water! Nothing like ending the trip and relaxing while sunbathing.

The establishment is luxurious and steeped in history. This hotel is a true icon of American history. It has seen the stay of great names such as Marilyn Monroe, Frank Sinatra, Sammy Davis Jr., John F. Kennedy, Ronald and Nancy Reagan, Hoover, George W. Bush among others.

I loved it.

THE END.

Tip note: at gas stations, dried meat / cinnamon gum.